Not sure what separates a half-canvas construction from a full-canvas one? We can help.



Words: T. MacInnis


With our 171 years in tailoring, we know there’s loads of jargon associated with the craft that might need explaining. And since it’s our job at Moss to make you look and feel your best, we wanted to demystify a couple of tailoring terms to make the process a bit more approachable: half-canvas vs. full-canvas construction.

When it comes to buying a blazer, you can choose between two different interlining styles, one called half canvas and one called full canvas. Each one will make your jacket sit and fit slightly differently. Read on to learn more about these two different options and find out which one might be right for you and your jacket.

What is canvas?

Canvas, or canvas interlining, is a particular kind of fabric that sits between the outside of your blazer and the visible lining on the inside. You can see where exactly it would sit in two different jackets above. Typically made with a blend of horsehair and cotton, canvas offers structure and support to the jacket. It affects the way the jacket hangs or drapes on your body, which can make it more flattering. As well, when a jacket is interlined with canvas, it’ll likely last longer and retain its shape longer.


What is half-canvas construction?

As we’ve touched on above, a jacket with a half-canvas construction only has that that lining from the shoulder down to the waist. With half-canvas, you’ll get a nice, structured shoulder and a slight, natural drape across the chest.

Typically, because there is less canvas and less work involved with this style of jacket, you can expect to pay a little less than a fully-canvassed jacket. It will also feel less heavy than a full-canvas and slightly less structured. Relative to a jacket without any canvas at all, it will feel more substantial and will likely fit better. Over time, it will naturally mould to your body which means it’s a great long term investment.


What is full-canvas construction?

As with a half-canvas jacket, will full canvas, you’re getting lots of structure through the shoulders and through the body of the jacket. But, that structure runs even further down the front, allowing for an even better fit and drape. You’ll also get a more durable jacket that will stand up to decades of wear and dry-cleaning. The only negatives with full-canvas are the added cost and production time.

At Moss, we don’t currently offer off-the-rack full-canvas jackets. But, if you are considering our Custom Made¬†service, you can request a full-canvas lining if you’re looking for extra structure and durability. Again, it will cost a bit more and the production time will be a bit longer.



Whatever you choose, there are benefits and downsides to both half and full-canvas jackets. But, as always, if you get the fit right and you love the fabric and finishings, chances are, you’ll wear it for years to come.